Posts Tagged ‘James Wedmore’

Then one day after a particularly harrowing set, an old guy saddled up beside me and said…”Girlie! you won’t know…unless you go!”

And I whined back, like a pouty teenager, “I do want to go! I really, really wanted that wave!”

“Not what it looked like from here -I’ve been watching you for an hour…you could have had ALL of those waves but you pull back at the last second instead of digging deeper. You’re scared.”